If you're shopping for the best cam and lifter kit for 5 7 hemi in 2027, the first thing to know is fitment, not horsepower. The Mopar 5.7 Hemi uses MDS and a cam phaser layout that does not accept GM LS or Gen V L83 parts. As of 2026, plenty of listings blur that line, so I focused on what each kit actually fits and what comes in the box.
In our research, the Michigan Motorsports Gen V L83 5.3L kit is the strongest overall value for a complete DOD-style conversion, but it is GM Gen V hardware, not a direct Hemi kit. Use the winner card as a starting point, then verify your engine family before you spend a dime.
Comparison Chart of Best Cam and Lifter Kit for 5 7 Hemi in 2027
| Product | Details | Rating | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
Editor’s Choice  | Michigan Motorsports Gen V L83 5.3L | ★★★★★5/5 | |
Top Pick  | BTR Brian Tooley Racing Stage 4 | ★★★★☆4.5/5 | |
Best Budget  | BTR Brian Tooley Racing LS3 Stage | ★★★★☆4.7/5 | |
| ★★★★☆4.6/5 | ||
| ★★★★☆4.6/5 |
List of Top 5 Best Cam and Lifter Kit for 5 7 Hemi in 2027
I chose these five by comparing engine codes, included parts, valvetrain matching, and buyer feedback patterns. None of them are Mopar 5.7 Hemi-specific, and that is the most important thing to understand before you read the reviews. If you have a GM LS or Gen V engine, the fitment notes below will save you time.
Below are the list of products:
1. Michigan Motorsports Gen V L83 5.3L
The Michigan Motorsports kit is the only Gen V L83 DOD conversion in this research set, and that matters because 2014+ 5.3L trucks use a very different cam and lifter setup than older LS engines. It bundles the GM 12742436/12672469 camshaft with LS7 lifters, trays, head gaskets, and head bolts. For a 5.7 Hemi owner, this is a fitment warning rather than a direct match.
Why I picked it
I picked it as the overall leader because it solves the DOD conversion in one box. The kit includes the hardware that usually turns a cam swap into a long parts hunt, and buyer feedback points to clean fitment when the engine code is matched.
Key specs
- Fits Gen V L83 5.3L V8 engines from 2014 and newer
- GM camshaft part numbers 12742436 and 12672469 included
- LS7 lifters, lifter trays, head gaskets, and head bolts in the box
- DOD conversion layout for engines with displacement-on-demand hardware
- Reported rating: 5/5 from the listing data we reviewed
Real-world experience
In real-world use, this is the kit a Gen V truck owner reaches for after a lifter failure or when deleting DOD. The included head gaskets and bolts save time because you are already pulling the heads to swap lifters. It does not solve a Mopar 5.7 Hemi MDS problem, so do not treat it as a Hemi kit.
- Complete DOD bundle: cam, LS7 lifters, trays, gaskets, and bolts arrive together.
- Correct Gen V L83 fitment for 2014+ 5.3L engines when the code is confirmed.
- Strong buyer rating: listing data shows 5/5 from verified buyers.
- Not a 5.7 Hemi kit: this is GM Gen V hardware, so Mopar owners must look elsewhere.
- Requires tuning and mechanical skill: a DOD conversion is not a beginner bolt-on.
- ✔ You own a 2014+ Gen V L83 5.3L and need a full DOD conversion.
- ✔ You are already pulling heads and want gaskets and bolts included.
- ✔ You want one source for the cam, lifters, trays, and top-end seals.
- ✖ You have a Mopar 5.7 Hemi and need MDS-specific parts.
- ✖ You want a cam-only swap with no tuning or valvetrain work.
2. BTR Brian Tooley Racing Stage 4
The BTR Stage 4 is the pick for anyone chasing peak power on an older LS1, LS2, or LS6 5.7L. It is a naturally aspirated cam kit that pairs a Stage 4 profile with matched springs, titanium retainers, pushrods, and gaskets. Buyer reports we reviewed talk about top-end pull, not idle manners.
Why I picked it
I ranked it high because the valvetrain ships matched. Putting a big cam under stock springs is how people drop valves, and this kit removes that guesswork entirely.
Key specs
- Fits LS1, LS2 and LS6 5.7L plus 6.0L Gen III/IV engines
- Naturally aspirated Stage 4 camshaft profile
- Valve springs with titanium retainers included
- Pushrods and gaskets bundled in the same box
- Requires ECU recalibration before the engine runs right
Real-world experience
In real-world builds this is a street and strip cam. Guys running a 5.7L with headers and a stall converter report a hard pull past 4,500 rpm. Traffic driving suffers, though, because low-speed vacuum drops and the idle gets choppy.
- Matched springs and titanium retainers reduce valvetrain mass at high rpm.
- One purchase covers cam, springs, retainers, pushrods, and gaskets.
- Fits several 5.7L and 6.0L LS variants, so swap options stay open.
- Choppy idle and weak low-speed vacuum make daily traffic annoying.
- Automatic cars need a higher-stall converter plus a full retune.
- ✔ You are building an NA LS1, LS2, or LS6 for weekend track use.
- ✔ You want springs and retainers matched to the cam from day one.
- ✔ You already have a tuner lined up for the calibration work.
- ✖ You commute in stop-and-go traffic and need smooth idle quality.
- ✖ Your engine is a Mopar 5.7 Hemi, since this block pattern will not match.
3. BTR Brian Tooley Racing LS3 Stage
The LS3 Stage 5 kit targets the rectangle-port family: L99, L92, L76, L77, L96, and LS3 6.2L. It ships the cam with a steel spring kit and pushrods, which is the practical middle ground for a budget build. If you are paying a shop by the hour, this is where the money usually goes furthest.
Why I picked it
It earns the budget slot because you get the cam plus the parts that fail first, without paying for a full gasket set you may not need. Buyer feedback skews toward 6.0L truck and 6.2L car owners wanting a proven profile.
Key specs
- Stage 5 profile for 6.2L and 6.0L rectangle-port engines
- Fits L99, L92, L76, L77, L96 and LS3 variants
- Steel spring kit included for higher lift durability
- Pushrods bundled; gaskets and seals sold separately
- Requires a tune, and automatic cars want a looser converter
Real-world experience
Picture a 6.2L swapped into a weekend car with long-tube headers. That is the build this cam suits best, and buyer notes describe a strong midrange pull. The trade-off shows up in cold-start behavior, which gets rough until the tune is dialed in properly.
- Covers six engine codes, so it fits more swap projects than a narrow kit.
- Steel spring kit is included, which protects higher-lift cams from float.
- Lowest total cost per horsepower among the cam kits we compared.
- No gaskets, seals, or bolts in the box, so budget for extras.
- Stage 5 overlap hurts idle quality and low-rpm drivability.
- ✔ You run an LS3, L92, or L99 and want maximum power per dollar.
- ✔ You already have gaskets and hardware from a previous teardown.
- ✔ Your project is a weekend toy rather than a daily driver.
- ✖ You need a sealed, bolt-on package with every gasket included.
- ✖ Your truck has to idle smoothly for towing at low rpm.
4. BTR Brian Tooley Racing PDS Stage
This is the boosted build kit, designed around LSA and LS3 6.2L engines running a supercharger. The PDS Stage 4 V2 camshaft ships with a spring kit, titanium retainers, and pushrods. If your blower is already bolted on, this is the version that keeps the valve events working with positive manifold pressure.
Why I picked it
I included it because forced induction changes the cam spec entirely, and most budget kits ignore that. Buyer feedback from LSA owners points to better boost response with the PDS profile than with a naturally aspirated Stage 4 grind.
Key specs
- PDS Stage 4 V2 profile built for supercharged LSA and LS3 6.2L engines
- Camshaft, spring kit with titanium retainers, and pushrods included
- Titanium retainers cut valvetrain mass for higher rpm with boost
- Needs a dedicated tune and upgraded fueling to be safe
- Gaskets and bolts are not in this bundle
Real-world experience
Think of a 6.2L LSA in a street car running 10 psi. This is where the kit makes sense, and owners report a broader torque curve than the NA grinds. Below 2,500 rpm it is not magical, and the blower still dominates the feel.
- Ground for boost, not adapted from an NA profile.
- Springs, titanium retainers, and pushrods all arrive together.
- Works with both LSA and LS3 6.2L supercharged builds.
- Useless on a naturally aspirated engine, so plan the blower first.
- No gaskets or head bolts, which means a second order mid-build.
- ✔ Your LSA or LS3 already runs a supercharger and needs a matching cam.
- ✔ You want the spring kit and retainers sorted in one purchase.
- ✔ A dyno tune is already budgeted for the build.
- ✖ Your engine is naturally aspirated, since the overlap is wrong for it.
- ✖ You need a camshaft only and already own matched springs.
5. BTR Brian Tooley Racing PDS Stage
Same PDS Stage 4 V2 grind, camshaft only. This listing exists for the builder who already has springs, retainers, and pushrods on the shelf, or who is stepping up from a smaller cam and reusing hardware. It is the cheapest entry into the boosted profile, provided you know your valvetrain limits.
Why I picked it
It rounds out the list for anyone who only needs the cam. We compared it against the full kit above and confirmed the grind matches, so you are not giving up profile by buying the stripped version.
Key specs
- PDS Stage 4 V2 camshaft for LSA and LS3 6.2L supercharged builds
- Camshaft only; springs, retainers, and pushrods not included
- Requires confirming your current spring rate suits the lift
- Needs a fresh tune and adequate fuel system headroom
- Fits the same block family as the full PDS kit
Real-world experience
This is the part a guy orders after a spring upgrade, not before one. Buyer reports tied to this listing are thinner than the full kit, so check your existing hardware carefully. If your springs are stock LSA pieces, add a spring kit to the order.
- Same boosted grind as the full kit at a lower total spend.
- Ideal if you already own matched springs and pushrods.
- Simple single part means less leftover hardware afterward.
- No springs, so mismatched hardware can float valves at high rpm.
- No head gaskets or bolts, so the teardown list grows quickly.
- ✔ You already run upgraded springs and pushrods on an LSA build.
- ✔ You want the boosted V2 grind without paying for parts twice.
- ✔ Your engine is already tuned and you have a dyno slot booked.
- ✖ Your valvetrain is stock, since you will need springs anyway.
- ✖ You want one order that covers every gasket and bolt.
How I picked
We did not physically install these cams. What we did was compare manufacturer part numbers, engine-code fitment charts, included hardware, and aggregated buyer feedback across the listings. That is the honest scope, and it matters more than a fake dyno sheet.
Every kit here got scored on four things:
- Fitment accuracy: does the stated engine code list match the actual cam family, phaser layout, and lifter style? The Gen V L83 kit uses a different lifter tray design than the Gen III/IV LS kits, and that is a hard pass or fail.
- Valvetrain completeness: a cam without matched springs is a liability. Spring rate, retainer material, and pushrod length all have to agree with the lobe profile or you get valve float.
- Real buyer reports: we read through verified purchase feedback for patterns on idle quality, tune difficulty, and hardware gaps. Repeat complaints about missing gaskets showed up more than once.
- Support and returns: whether the seller publishes a spec sheet and answers fitment questions.
A few things I deliberately did not test. I did not run long-term durability beyond the reported owner timelines, so I cannot tell you how a spring kit holds up after 40,000 miles. I also did not verify tuning software compatibility on a live dyno, because that depends on your specific ECU and tuner.
One thing that surprised me during this research: none of these five kits is a Mopar 5.7 Hemi kit. The 5.7 Hemi uses MDS solenoids, a specific cam phaser, and a different lifter design. If you own a Ram 1500 or a Charger with the 5.7, you need a Hemi-specific grinder, not a GM LS kit.
Keep that in mind as you read the fitment notes.
Buying guide — what actually matters for best cam and lifter kit for 5 7 hemi in 2027
A cam and lifter kit is a matched set of a camshaft, lifters, and supporting valvetrain parts that changes your engine's valve timing and lift. Getting the match wrong is how engines fail, so the buying decisions below matter more than brand loyalty.
Will the kit actually fit your engine?
Check the engine code, not the displacement. A 5.3L can be a Gen IV LC9 or a Gen V L83, and those two engines do not take the same cam. Buyers who skip this step end up with a cam that physically fits the block but has the wrong phaser reluctor or the wrong lifter tray depth.
For a 5.7 Hemi, look for a cam ground specifically for MDS and VVT. For GM LS engines, confirm Gen III versus Gen IV versus Gen V before you order. That single check eliminates most of the return traffic we found in buyer reviews.
What is included, and what will you still need to buy?
The difference between a good kit and a cheap kit is usually the gasket pile. A full kit should include springs, retainers, pushrods, head gaskets, head bolts, and lifter trays. A cam-only listing includes none of that, which is fine if you already have the parts.
Budget for these separately if the kit skips them:
- Head gaskets (multi-layer steel is the standard for boosted builds)
- Head bolts or studs (torque-to-yield bolts are one-time use)
- Timing cover and front seal gaskets
- Engine oil and filter plus a coolant refill
Skipping head bolts is the most common mistake I saw. They stretch when torqued and cannot be reused safely.
Do you need a tune, and what happens if you skip it?
Yes, you need a tune. A cam change alters airflow at every rpm, and the factory ECU calibration will not know what to do with it. Running an untuned cam risks lean conditions, poor idle, check-engine codes, and possible valve damage at high rpm.
For a 5.7 Hemi, tuning usually means a handheld programmer or a custom mail-order tune from a shop that has seen your engine code. Budget for it as part of the build, not as an optional add-on. The same goes for a stall converter on automatic cars with a big cam.
How much lift can your springs handle?
Valve float is the quiet killer here. It happens when a spring cannot close the valve fast enough at high rpm, and the result is piston-to-valve contact. Lift and duration specs mean nothing if the spring rate is not matched.
Practical rules of thumb:
- Above 0.550 inches of valve lift, factory springs are usually not enough
- Titanium retainers reduce mass and help response at high rpm
- Beehive springs work well in moderate street builds with lower coil bind risk
- Dual springs suit higher lift and higher rpm, at the cost of more seat pressure
If the listing does not state a spring rate, ask before you buy.
Is a bigger cam always better?
No. Cam size trades low-rpm drivability for high-rpm power, and past a certain point you lose more than you gain on the street. A Stage 4 or 5 grind makes great peak numbers but idles rough and can fight a stock torque converter.
Match the cam to the build. A mild street grind with a good tune will feel stronger in traffic than an aggressive profile that peaks at 6,500 rpm. This is where a shop with your engine code and goals is worth the consult.
What about MDS and VVT on a Hemi?
Multi-Displacement System (MDS) is Chrysler's cylinder deactivation feature, and Variable Valve Timing (VVT) uses a cam phaser to adjust timing on the fly. Both interact with the cam, so the wrong grind will throw MDS codes or cause a phaser fault.
If you are deleting MDS, the kit needs a non-MDS lifter set plus tuning that accounts for the change. If you are keeping MDS, the cam has to be ground to work with it. Ask the seller which one the kit supports, in writing.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Will any of these kits fit a 5.7 Hemi directly?
No. Every kit on this list is GM-pattern hardware: Gen V L83, LS1, LS2, LS6, LS3, L92, L99, LSA. The 5.7 Hemi uses a different lifter tray layout, MDS hardware, and cam phaser design.
Search for a grinder that publishes Hemi-specific part numbers before you spend anything.
Is a cam and lifter kit worth it for a daily driver?
Only if you match the profile to how you actually drive. A mild grind with a proper tune improves midrange without wrecking idle. A Stage 4 or 5 cam makes traffic miserable, and the fuel economy drop is real.
If the car sees mostly stop-and-go, stay on the mild side.
How much does the install usually cost in labor?
For a shop doing a cam and lifter swap on a V8, expect a sizable labor bill that scales with the engine bay. A transverse or tight bay costs more. If you do it yourself, budget a full weekend plus a tune and fluids.
The parts are only part of the story.
Do I have to replace lifters when I change the cam?
Yes, as a rule. Lifters wear into a specific cam lobe pattern, and pairing used lifters with a new cam is a known cause of premature failure. This is why a kit that bundles LS7 lifters or their equivalent saves you both money and risk.
Can I run a supercharged cam on a naturally aspirated engine?
You can, but you should not. A boosted cam grind has different overlap to suit positive manifold pressure, and in an NA engine it typically loses low-end response. Buy the NA grind for NA use and the PDS grind for a blower setup.
What else should I inspect while the engine is apart?
Check the lifter bores for scoring, the timing chain for stretch, and the oil pump for wear. Replacing the timing chain and oil pump while the front is open is cheap insurance. Those parts are not in most kits, so plan for them separately.
Final verdict
The Michigan Motorsports Gen V L83 5.3L takes the top spot because it bundles the cam, LS7 lifters, trays, gaskets, and head bolts in one box, and that completeness is what keeps a DOD conversion on schedule. The BTR Stage 4 is the runner-up for anyone building an older NA LS with a matched valvetrain. Just confirm your engine code first, because none of these are 5.7 Hemi kits.
Affiliate disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you buy through one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It never changes my recommendation, I only suggest gear I'd actually buy myself.