A worn strut rarely fails all at once. It shows up as a floaty front end over highway expansion joints, cupped tire wear, and a little extra bounce when you shut the door. If you're hunting for the best shocks for ford explorer in 2027, the real work is matching the right assembly to your Explorer's generation, drivetrain, and the way you actually drive it.
We spent weeks comparing fitment charts, assembly designs, and aggregate buyer feedback across the shocks and struts that actually list Ford Explorer coverage. The bottom line: the ECCPP complete strut assembly is the smartest starting point for most 2013-2019 owners, with A-Premium's rear set as the pick for a rear-only refresh. Here's how the whole field shakes out.
Comparison Chart of Best Shocks for Ford Explorer in 2027
| Product | Details | Rating | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
Editor’s Choice  | ECCPP Complete Struts Spring Ford Explorer | ★★★★☆4.1/5 | |
Top Pick  | A-Premium Rear Shock Absorbers Top Mount | ★★★★☆4.2/5 | |
Best Budget  | Front Shock Absorber Strut Fit 2013-2019 | ★★★★☆4/5 | |
| ★★★★☆4.5/5 | ||
| ★★★★☆4.1/5 |
List of Top 5 Best Shocks for Ford Explorer in 2027
We ranked these on three things that actually decide whether a suspension job goes well: verified model-year and drivetrain fitment, whether the assembly is complete or bare, and what aggregate buyer feedback says about ride height, noise, and how long they hold up. Ratings are real Amazon figures, and every downside below comes from buyer reports or spec analysis, not guesswork.
Below are the list of products:
1. ECCPP Complete Struts Spring Ford Explorer
This is the one we'd point most 2013-2019 Explorer owners toward first. It shows up as a complete assembly with the coil spring already seated, which turns a spring-compressor job into a straight swap. In our research, that single detail is what separates it from bare shocks at a similar price.
Why I picked it
Complete assemblies remove the two riskiest parts of a strut job: compressing a loaded coil spring and reusing a tired top mount. Aggregate buyer feedback on this set centers on stock ride height and a factory-like feel, not a lifted truck stance.
Key specs
- Listed fitment: Ford Explorer, 2013 through 2019
- Design: complete strut assembly with coil spring pre-installed
- Install benefit: no spring compressor needed
- Aggregate rating: 4.1 out of 5
- Ride character: reported close to factory, not stiff or lifted
Real-world experience
In buyer reports, the recurring story is a 2013-2019 Explorer that had gone floaty over bridge joints and started feathering the inner edge of the tires. Owners who booked an alignment right after the swap described the ride settling within the first few hundred miles. Several also replaced sway bar links while the struts were out, which is cheap insurance on a vehicle over 100,000 miles.
- Spring and strut arrive pre-assembled, so you skip the compressor and cut install time.
- Reported ride height stays near stock, which keeps alignment numbers easy to hit.
- Covers the full 2013-2019 Explorer run, one of the most common generations on the road.
- Ride quality sits at factory level, so don’t expect a sport-tuned upgrade.
- A handful of buyers report fitment confusion on AWD trims, so verify your drivetrain first.
- Long-term valving life past 60,000 miles isn’t well documented in reviews.
- ✔ You own a 2013-2019 Explorer with a bouncy, floaty front end
- ✔ You want a bolt-on job a driveway mechanic can finish in an afternoon
- ✔ You’re refreshing worn springs and mounts at the same time
- ✖ You want a lifted or off-road-tuned stance
- ✖ Your Explorer is a 2020 or newer sixth-gen model
2. A-Premium Rear Shock Absorbers Top Mount
A-Premium sells this as a pair of rear shocks with the top mount already attached, which is the part most people forget to order until the old stud snaps. For a rear-only refresh on an Explorer that still feels planted up front, it's the least painful route.
Why I picked it
Rear shocks on a unibody SUV take a beating from cargo load and trailer tongue weight, and the mount is usually what fails first on rust-belt vehicles. Including the top mount removes a separate part number and a separate failure point. Its 4.2 out of 5 aggregate rating is also the second strongest on this list.
Key specs
- Quantity: set of 2 rear shock absorbers
- Mounting: top mount included and pre-fitted
- Position: rear axle
- Aggregate rating: 4.2 out of 5
- Hardware: listed as a direct replacement, reuse factory lower bolts
Real-world experience
Buyer feedback tends to come from two camps: families hauling kids and gear who noticed the rear squatting over speed bumps, and owners towing small trailers who wanted the tail to stop wagging. Both report a firmer, more controlled rear end rather than anything harsh. The most common complaint is a slight stiffness in the first week that settles down.
- Top mount included, so you avoid sourcing a second part when the old one is rusted.
- 4.2 out of 5 aggregate rating, the second highest here.
- Fixes rear squat and trailer wag without stiffening the daily ride.
- Rear only, so a full four-corner refresh means buying a second kit.
- Firmness out of the box is noticeable for the first few days.
- ✔ Your front end feels fine but the tail wallows when loaded
- ✔ You tow a small trailer or carry cargo often
- ✔ Your original top mounts are crusty and you’d rather replace than clean
- ✖ You want to replace all four corners in one order
- ✖ You prefer a soft, cushioned factory float
3. Front Shock Absorber Strut Fit 2013-2019
If one front corner is knocking and money is tight, this front strut is the value play. It's listed specifically for front-wheel-drive 2013-2019 Explorers, and that drivetrain specificity is exactly what you want in a budget part. Get the fitment wrong here and you'll be paying return shipping.
Why I picked it
The listing calls out front-wheel drive explicitly, and that matters because AWD Explorers use a different front knuckle and half-shaft layout. Budget struts live or die on fitment accuracy, and a clearly scoped FWD listing reduces the odds of a return. It's a straightforward single-corner fix at the lowest entry point here.
Key specs
- Fitment: 2013-2019 Ford Explorer, front-wheel drive
- Position: front strut assembly
- Design: shock absorber strut, ready to bolt in
- Aggregate rating: 4.0 out of 5
- Best use: replacing one failed front corner
Real-world experience
Buyer reports skew toward high-mileage commuter Explorers that developed a clunk over driveway aprons and a shimmy at 60 mph. Owners who replaced both fronts at once reported a much more even result than the people who did one side only. That's the pattern we'd follow: do them in pairs even when only one is leaking.
- Clear FWD-only fitment removes the guesswork that causes most budget-part returns.
- Lowest cost per corner on this list, so a pair is realistic on a tight budget.
- Straightforward bolt-in job for a driveway mechanic with basic hand tools.
- Not for AWD Explorers, which rules out a big chunk of the fleet.
- 4.0 out of 5 rating, the weakest on this list, with scattered noise complaints.
- Durability past the 50,000-mile mark is the least proven here.
- ✔ You drive a front-wheel-drive 2013-2019 Explorer
- ✔ One front corner is clunking and you need it fixed this weekend
- ✔ You’re keeping the vehicle a few more years, not restoring it
- ✖ Your Explorer is all-wheel drive
- ✖ You want one purchase that covers all four corners
4. Shocks ECCPP Front Rear Shock 1995-2001
Here's the highest-rated set on the whole list at 4.5 out of 5, and it covers the second-generation Explorer. Those trucks run separate shocks front and rear rather than a full strut assembly, so a four-shock kit makes far more sense than piecing it together.
Why I picked it
A 4.5 out of 5 aggregate rating across a truck this old is unusual, and it tells you buyers are getting what they expected. Second-gen Explorers use separate dampers, so buying all four at once keeps the valving matched. That matters more than most people think on a leaf-sprung rear axle.
Key specs
- Listed fitment: Ford Explorer, 1995 through 2001 (listing also notes 2003)
- Coverage: front and rear shocks in one set
- Design: separate damper, no spring included
- Aggregate rating: 4.5 out of 5, highest on this list
- Install note: reuse factory springs and mounts
Real-world experience
Feedback here comes from people keeping a 90s truck alive: farm vehicles, tow rigs, and high-school first cars. The recurring theme is that a tired Explorer with 200,000 miles suddenly stops pitching over railroad crossings. Several owners mention that worn rear leaf bushings still cause a clunk afterward, so don't blame the new shocks for a noise you didn't fix.
- Highest buyer rating here at 4.5 out of 5 across a genuinely old vehicle.
- All four corners in one order, so front and rear damping stay matched.
- Simple separate-damper design, so no spring compressor is required.
- Only fits the 1995-2001 second-gen body, so it’s useless for a 2013 and up.
- Springs and mounts are not included, and tired ones will mask the improvement.
- Ride is stiff on rough pavement, closer to a truck than a crossover.
- ✔ You’re keeping a 1995-2001 Explorer on the road
- ✔ You want all four dampers replaced in one afternoon
- ✔ You account for stiff truck-like damping and are fine with it
- ✖ Your Explorer is a 2011 or newer model
- ✖ Your coil springs are sagging and you need assemblies
5. SCITOO 2pcs Rear Shock Absorbers Replace
SCITOO's pair rounds out the list as the rear-only option for owners who want the least expensive way to kill a wallowing tail. It's a two-shock set with a 4.1 out of 5 rating, and the fitment is general Explorer rather than a narrow year window, so check your build date carefully before ordering.
Why I picked it
Two rear shocks is what most people actually need when the front end is still composed. SCITOO lists this as a direct replacement, so the factory lower mount and upper stud are reused rather than adapted. It's the simplest possible path to fixing a bouncy tail.
Key specs
- Quantity: 2 rear shock absorbers
- Position: rear axle, both sides
- Design: direct replacement damper
- Aggregate rating: 4.1 out of 5
- Includes: shocks only, no mounts or springs
Real-world experience
Buyer reports describe mild-mannered daily driving rather than towing, and the results track that: less rebound over potholes, a flatter feel through highway curves. A few owners flagged that the listing's fitment language is broad, so confirm your exact model year in a parts lookup before you buy.
- Both rear corners in one box at the cheapest per-shock cost here.
- Reuses factory mounting points, so no adapters or drilling.
- Noticeably calmer rear end on rough city streets.
- Fitment wording is broad, so a wrong-year order is a real risk.
- No top mounts included, so rusted originals become extra work.
- ✔ The tail bounces twice after every speed bump
- ✔ Your front struts were replaced recently and still feel fine
- ✔ You’re working to a strict parts budget
- ✖ Your original top mounts are already cracked or seized
- ✖ You want a documented, narrow year-range fitment list
How I picked
We didn't bolt these onto a vehicle in a shop. Our method was editorial research: we compared manufacturer fitment data, assembly design, and verified buyer feedback across every model here, then cross-checked the year ranges against Ford Explorer generation changes.
Three benchmarks did most of the sorting:
- Fitment accuracy. A shock that doesn't match your drivetrain is worse than the worn one you're replacing. Listings that named a year range or drivetrain explicitly ranked higher.
- Assembly completeness. Complete struts with springs and mounts score above bare dampers, because they remove reused wear parts from the equation.
- Buyer-reported outcomes. We read for patterns, not stars: ride height changes, noise after install, and how the vehicle behaved at 60 mph and over expansion joints.
Two things we deliberately left out. We didn't test long-term durability past the 60,000-mile mark, because no buyer population here has run these long enough to be conclusive. And we didn't measure damping curves on a shock dyno, so our performance notes come from aggregate owner descriptions rather than instrumented data.
One more filter mattered: springs and mounts. A damper only controls motion, it doesn't carry weight. Any Explorer with sagging springs needs an assembly, not a bare shock.
Buying guide — what actually matters for best shocks for ford explorer in 2027
Does the shock fit your Explorer's generation?
This is the decision that eliminates most of the list for you. Ford split the Explorer into distinct platforms: the 1995-2001 second gen uses separate front and rear dampers, while the 2011-2019 fifth gen uses front strut assemblies with coil springs. Buying across that line is simply a return.
Check your door-jamb build sticker, note the drivetrain, then match it to the listing. AWD and FWD fifth-gen Explorers differ at the front knuckle and half-shaft, which is why budget front struts often specify one or the other.
Complete assembly or bare shock?
A complete strut assembly ships with the coil spring and top mount already seated. A bare shock reuses your existing spring, mount, and bearing. The choice comes down to condition, not preference.
- Go complete if the vehicle has over 100,000 miles, the front end sags, or the top mounts crunch over bumps.
- Go bare if the springs are healthy and you only need damping restored, usually at the rear.
- Never mix a new damper with a collapsed spring and expect the ride height to come back.
How does tire wear tell you what's worn?
Cupping or scalloped edges point to a damper that's lost its rebound control, letting the tire skip across the road surface. Inner-edge feathering on the front usually traces back to camber and toe, which a worn strut can shift. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration notes that suspension condition directly affects steering and stability, which is why we treat a bounce test as step one, not step last.
What does "direct fit" actually mean?
Direct fit means the damper reuses factory mounting hardware without adapters, drilling, or modification. It does not mean the hardware is included. On vehicles over a decade old, plan on new top mounts, bump stops, and bellows, since original rubber is likely cracked.
Damping itself is measured against engineering practice rather than marketing claims. Groups like SAE International publish standards for shock absorber testing and characterization, which is the framework behind the numbers you'll see in a service manual.
Should you replace in pairs?
Yes, in pairs or all four. Damping is a matched system, and one fresh damper beside a tired one produces uneven weight transfer, which you'll feel as a nervous, unpredictable front or rear end. Pair replacement is also the only way to get an even alignment reading afterward.
Does a shop or a driveway matter?
Rear shocks are a two-hour driveway job with hand tools. Front strut assemblies need a jack, stands, a torque wrench, and a breaker bar, plus an alignment afterward. If you have no way to get the vehicle in the air safely, factor professional labor into your total before you compare parts.
For anyone who likes working through faults methodically, the same code-reading discipline applies here: our guides on reading diagnostic codes show how a single pattern narrows down a whole system. Modern Explorers log chassis and stability faults for the same reason, and tracking down a fault code is a habit worth building before you guess at parts.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How do I know if my Explorer needs new shocks?
A double bounce after pushing down on a corner, cupped tire wear, leaking fluid on the damper body, or a floaty feel over bridge joints all point to worn shocks. Any one of these is enough to justify an inspection. On a vehicle past 80,000 miles with original dampers, replacement is a reasonable call even without obvious symptoms.
Can I replace just the rear shocks and leave the front?
Yes, and it's often the smartest budget move. Rear dampers wear faster on a cargo-hauling SUV, so a rear pair can restore a lot of composure while the front struts still have life. Just avoid replacing one side only.
Uneven damping at opposite ends of the same axle makes the vehicle feel unpredictable in a curve.
Will new shocks raise or lower my Explorer's ride height?
Bare shocks won't change ride height at all, because the springs carry the weight. Complete strut assemblies can restore height if your original springs had sagged, and some buyers report a slightly taller stance simply because the old units were compressed and tired. That's restoration, not a lift.
Do I need an alignment after replacing shocks or struts?
You need one after any front strut replacement, no exceptions. The strut bolts to the knuckle and small changes in its position alter camber and toe, which is how you end up with feathered tires. Rear shock swaps generally don't require an alignment, though it's worth checking if the old units were badly worn.
What else should I replace while the suspension is apart?
Top mounts, bump stops, and dust bellows are the three you'll regret skipping. Sway bar links and bushings are cheap and accessible at the same time, and a torn bellows lets grit into the damper shaft seal. If you're already there, replacing tired rubber now beats paying the labor twice.
Our own troubleshooting steps follow the same logic: fix everything in the failure path at once.
Which of these fits an AWD Explorer?
The ECCPP complete strut assembly is the one to verify against your specific trim, and buyers on AWD models have reported fitment confusion, so confirm before ordering. The budget front strut is explicitly FWD-only. The rear sets are more forgiving on drivetrain, though year range still has to match.
Final verdict
For most Explorer owners, the ECCPP complete strut assembly is the pick that removes the most risk in one purchase. If your tail is the problem and the front still feels tight, the A-Premium rear set with included top mounts is the better-value single fix.
Affiliate disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you buy through one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It never changes my recommendation, I only suggest gear I'd actually buy myself.